Rufus, over at That’s How It Happened, shares with us his experience of a 26 course meal at L’Enclume. Frankly, it’s all a bit beyond me.
(hat tip to Jason Kottke for the link)
Not Yer Meat And Two Veg…
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2 responses to “Not Yer Meat And Two Veg…”
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I’m not sure when it was that some chefs stopped thinking that they had an obligation to served food rather than science experiments but I blame Ferran Adria of El Bulli. The comment that Adria thinks that "food should taste of itself" is so far off from what happens at such places that I don’t know where to start. Dishes in places like this, El Bulli, the Fat Duck etc usually lack seasonality and are often very cheap ingredients indeed – they are not very interesting to start with, so in fact the last thing you want is for them to taste of themselves. For some examples of real cooking read my blog (www.andyhayler.com) this week about eating in four 3 star Michelin places in Paris. In places like Meurice and Ledoyen the chef is out to dazzle you with his ingredients and quality of cooking, not trying to shock you into submission. Fay Maschler makes this point more eloquently thiks week in Restaurant Magazine.
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Andy, thanks. I’m glad that I’m not alone in thinking that the emperors have no clothes…
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