Reflections on life at “De Witte Wand”…

Category: Food and drink

  • One for the List

    Our very good friend Carolien treated us to lunch yesterday by way of celebrating Martin’s 70th birthday and our 25th Wedding Anniversary. She really pushed the boat out and found a restaurant in nearby Braamt (only 20 minutes drive away): Karels.

    Absolutely magnificent. They even had footstools for the ladies’ handbags! A tradition, I believe, of classy French restaurants, which I first heard about from Jay Rayner. Fortunately, if Jay ever reviews Karels, I feel sure that he won’t give the same stinker of a review as he did for Le Cinq…

    Every course was a work of art – and tasted sublime as well. Service was friendly, knowledgeable and attentive. A restaurant to be added to the list of places to return to.

  • First Brexit, Then Trump, and Now This…

    Patak’s have stopped importing their pickles to the Netherlands!

    This is an absolute f***ing disaster! No more Hot Lime Pickle or Brinjal Pickle? My Indian cooking will not be the same. What are we to do?

  • The Egg Master

    I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry at Rhik Samadder’s review of the Egg Master

    So I did both.

    The comments are worth reading as well. A&E units – you have been warned…

  • Feed the Birds…

    We’ve got a large cherry tree in our front garden. Every year it gives a wonderful display of cherry blossom, followed by a large crop of cherries. Unfortunately, as soon as they are ripe, an equally large flock of starlings appears from nowhere and proceeds to strip the tree of fruit in very short order. This year I managed to get there just before them and pick enough fruit to make six pots of cherry jam. The starlings got the rest…

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  • RIP, Clarissa

    Clarissa Dickson Wright has died. The phrases: “larger than life” and “a true British eccentric” fitted her like gloves. It was almost 20 years ago that she, together with Jennifer Paterson (also, alas, dead) roared onto British TV with an unlikely cookery programme called Two Fat Ladies. It was an instant hit, and I have all their cookery books lined up on the shelf in the kitchen for occasional reference.

    Dickson Wright had an appalling childhood caused by an alcoholic and violent father. Her full name, as befitting the larger than life moniker, was Clarissa Theresa Philomena Aileen Mary Josephine Agnes Elsie Trilby Louise Esmerelda Dickson Wright.

    Whilst I did not agree with her on certain issues, she was undoubtedly a formidable woman, and life will be duller without her.

  • Mellow Fruitfulness

    At the moment, we’re seeing Keats’s poem To Autumn come to life all around us. We’re harvesting our fruit trees and shrubs. This year we have a bumper crop of plums, pears, elderberries and blackberries, backed up by a reasonable result from our walnut, hazelnut, and sweet chestnut trees.

    We have also discovered that we have Cornelian Cherry shrubs laden with berries, and so we’ll be making a new jam variety this year, to go alongside the pear jam (with hints of lemon and cinnamon), the blackberry and elderberry jams, and the plum jam and chutney. Trouble is, we’re rapidly running out of jam jars…

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  • Potential Food

    I’ve always had a barrier about eating insects. Sea crustaceans, no problem; but insects in general? Well no, thank you.

    So cricket broth, or wax moth larvae mousse are not exactly what I’ll be sitting down for.

    Unfortunately, it’s probably the future.

  • Culinary Meme

    Courtesy of Nicholas Whyte, here’s a list of kitchen gadgets.

    Bold the ones you have and use at least once a year, italicize the ones you have and don’t use, strike through the ones you have had but got rid of.

    I wonder how many apple corers, pasta machines, breadmakers, juicers, blenders, deep fat fryers, egg boilers, melon ballers, sandwich makers, pastry brushes, cheese boards, cheese knives, electric woks, miniature salad spinners, griddle pans, jam funnels, meat thermometers, filleting knives, egg poachers, cake stands, garlic crushers, martini glasses, tea strainers, bamboo steamers, pizza stones, coffee grinders, milk frothers, (it was a free gift, honest!), piping bags, banana stands, fluted pastry wheels, tagine dishes, conical strainers, rice cookers, steam cookers, pressure cookers, slow cookers, spaetzle makers, cookie presses, gravy strainers, double boilers (bains marie), sukiyaki stoves, ice cream makers, fondue sets, healthy-grills, home smokers, tempura sets, tortilla presses, electric whisks, cherry stoners, sugar thermometers, food processors, bacon presses, bacon slicers, mouli mills, cake testers, pestle-and-mortars, and sets of kebab skewers languish dustily at the back of the nation’s cupboards.

    Mike, this is for you. Andy, I suspect that you eat out too much…

  • RIP, Santi Santamaria

    Damn, I see that the chef, Santi Santamaria has died of a heart attack – he was only 53. We have made three visits to his three-Michelin-star restaurant El Racó de Can Fabes in the sleepy town of San Celoni near Barcelona, and each time we really enjoyed it.

    I first heard about Can Fabes from my friend and food critic, Andy Hayler. Although Andy reported that the standard of cooking in Can Fabes was not what it once was, we were fortunate enough to be able to visit it when Santamaria and his staff were cooking at, or very near, the peak of their powers.

  • The Indefatigable Elena

    When I was living in London, back in the 1970s and early 80s, I was fortunate enough to be able to dine at L’Escargot in Soho a couple of times. The restaurant was ruled over by Elena Salvoni, the tiny, but formidable, maître d’. Well, I say formidable, but she was also charming, and put me completely at my ease.

    Incredibly, she’s still going strong at 90 years of age. She’s a Soho institution.

  • The Wine Cellar

    A rather clever illusion. Simple, but the timing has to be just right…

    (hat tip to anaglyph on Richard Wiseman’s blog)

  • An Ethical Dilemma

    Foie Gras – simply delicious and simply cruel in its method of production. An article in today’s Guardian puts both sides of the argument well:

    Foie gras is objectively, indisputably cruel. What a tragedy, then, that it should be so delicious, with an incomparable interplay of sweet and fat, the semi-solid and semi-liquid, the smooth, buttery earthiness and the velvet blush of offal. For many who love food, it has a kind of beauty, even though that beauty was wrought from agony.

    Yes, I’ve tasted it – and it is every bit as good as described above. However, knowing now what I know about the method of production, I would think hard about eating it again.

  • The Alternative Masterchef Final

    I rather like watching the Masterchef programmes on the BBC. The series for professional chefs has just ended. I rather like this spoof version of the finale:

    Hat tip to Andy Hayler for the link.

  • Masterchef Again?

    I see that yet another series of Masterchef is starting on BBC TV tonight. It hardly seems any time at all since the last one finally ground to a halt. I have to say that I have a sneaking attraction for the series (although personally I prefer the non-“Celebrity” flavour) and the hosts, rather like the attraction a deer has for the oncoming headlights of the car that will deal it disaster. Part of it is the undoubted schadenfreude over some of the people who for some daft reason think that they can actually get anywhere in the competition.

    But then again, I know my limitations, there is no way that I would have the effrontery to partake in this modern version of the gladiatorial arena. And for those that do, some at least have the wit to be able to write about it in an engaging fashion.

  • Equilibrium

    A fine review of a not-so-fine restaurant by the Guardian‘s Food Critic today. One almost feels sorry for the restaurant owners. Almost.
  • Wine

    BBC Four has started a new series on the wine industry, centred around the venerable firm of Berry Brothers and Rudd. It is clearly going to be absolutely spellbinding, mainly because the contrast between the mystique that is being sold and the bunch of tossers, poseurs and wide boys that pass in front of us could hardly be greater.

    Wonderful stuff.

  • Omnivore’s Hundred

    Here’s a foodie meme that’s currently doing the rounds. It’s a list of 100 foods that Andrew, over at the Very Good Taste blog considers that every self-respecting omnivore should have eaten in their lifetime.

    I’ve bolded the items that I’ve eaten, and crossed out the items that I doubt whether I could ever bring myself to try…

    1. Venison
    2. Nettle tea
    3. Huevos rancheros
    4. Steak tartare
    5. Crocodile
    6. Black pudding
    7. Cheese fondue
    8. Carp (I may have had this when in Japan, but I’m not certain)
    9. Borscht
    10. Baba ghanoush
    11. Calamari
    12. Pho
    13. PB&J sandwich
    14. Aloo gobi
    15. Hot dog from a street cart
    16. Epoisses (ooh, I must look out for that the next time I’m at Bocholt market)
    17. Black truffle (I may have had a shaving somewhere along the way, and I do have a tin of them in the parlour cupboard)
    18. Fruit wine made from something other than grapes
    19. Steamed pork buns
    20. Pistachio ice cream (I’ve even had a go at making it)
    21. Heirloom tomatoes
    22. Fresh wild berries
    23. Foie gras
    24. Rice and beans
    25. Brawn, or head cheese
    26. Raw Scotch Bonnet pepper
    27. Dulce de leche
    28. Oysters (raw? no, I don’t think so)
    29. Baklava
    30. Bagna cauda
    31. Wasabi peas
    32. Clam chowder in a sourdough bowl (I’ve had both, but never chowder in a sourdough bowl)
    33. Salted lassi
    34. Sauerkraut
    35. Root beer float
    36. Cognac with a fat cigar
    37. Clotted cream tea
    38. Vodka jelly/Jell-O
    39. Gumbo
    40. Oxtail
    41. Curried goat
    42. Whole insects (nope, I draw the line)
    43. Phaal
    44. Goat’s milk
    45. Malt whisky from a bottle worth £60/$120 or more
    46. Fugu
    47. Chicken tikka masala
    48. Eel
    49. Krispy Kreme original glazed doughnut (doughnuts, yes; oliebollen, yes; but never a Krispy Kreme)
    50. Sea urchin
    51. Prickly pear
    52. Umeboshi
    53. Abalone
    54. Paneer
    55. McDonald’s Big Mac Meal
    56. Spaetzle
    57. Dirty gin martini
    58. Beer above 8% ABV
    59. Poutine
    60. Carob chips
    61. S’mores
    62. Sweetbreads
    63. Kaolin (? er, hello, this is a clay)
    64. Currywurst
    65. Durian
    66. Frogs’ legs
    67. Beignets, churros, elephant ears or funnel cake
    68. Haggis
    69. Fried plantain
    70. Chitterlings, or andouillette
    71. Gazpacho
    72. Caviar and blini
    73. Louche absinthe
    74. Gjetost, or brunost
    75. Roadkill (like Liz, I have a very healthy fear of liver flukes)
    76. Baijiu
    77. Hostess fruit pie 
    78. Snail
    79. Lapsang souchong
    80. Bellini
    81. Tom yum
    82. Eggs Benedict
    83. Pocky
    84. Tasting menu at a three-Michelin-star restaurant
    85. Kobe beef
    86. Hare
    87. Goulash
    88. Flowers
    89. Horse
    90. Criollo chocolate
    91. Spam
    92. Soft shell crab
    93. Rose harissa
    94. Catfish
    95. Mole poblano (I’ve made it!)
    96. Bagel and lox
    97. Lobster Thermidor (lobster, yes; thermidor, nope)
    98. Polenta
    99. Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee
    100. Snake

  • Whatever Happened To…

    … decent programmes about food and cooking on the telly? In the last few years, the quality has gone down the toilet, as expertise, simply presented, has been replaced by the flash-bang-wallop of meeja-studies graduates’ crap. As the latest example, I see that the Hairy Bikers are returning with a new series cunningly entitled Hairy Bakers. Oh gawd. While there may be the whiff of sour grapes about it, Dan Lepard’s piece pretty much nails the horror that the Hairy Bakers will surely be.
     
    I think I’ll just crack open another cookery book and go exploring culinary delights that way.
     
    By the way, anybody know where I can track down a source of crystallised violets in the Netherlands? I’ve got this wonderful recipe for an Edwardian trifle from Nigel Slater, and he says that they are absolutely essential as the topping… I’d make my own, but I’m fresh out of violets, and I also can’t get gum arabic from anywhere around here either. 
  • The Dark Side

    Delia Smith has been cooking for 39 years. Her cookery programmes have influenced millions, and caused stampedes on ingredients. Last night, her latest series began on BBC2. But what’s this? She’s using convenience foods; opening packets of frozen mashed potato and, horror of horrors, tinned mince. Sam Wollaston sums up the ghastliness of the whole affair in today’s Guardian pretty well.
     
    Delia’s gone over to the Dark Side…
     
    Update: So what does this stuff actually taste like? These folks are not impressed. I don’t think I’ll bother with any of these recipes, thank you very much.
  • Made in Transit

    An interesting post over at the Cornell Mushroom blog, which reports on an idea from Agata Jaworska.